FROM POTATOES TO POTAGE (2024)

Not only are potato soups innately hearty and easy to make, but they satisfy with a minimum of fat. Although it is common to embellish them with cream and butter, such additions are not necessary -- milk, yogurt or buttermilk can be used quite effectively to lend the flavor and look of cream without the dietary downside.

Fermented dairy products, with their acid spark, have the extra advantage of boosting flavor in a recipe, allowing the cook to use less salt. Since potatoes are notoriously bland, and traditionally call for heavy salting, salt-shy diners usually have to steer clear of many commercially prepared potato soups. But yogurt or buttermilk enlivens the gentle creaminess of a potato, and salt can be kept to a minimum with out sacrificing flavor.

The only drawback to these additions is that care must be taken in heating the soup after the fermen\ted product has been added, because these ingredients have a tendency to separate as the soup approaches a boil. The situation isn't as hazardous as it sounds, however. As long as the soup is pureed, or the potatoes are mashed into the broth before the dairy product is added, the starch from the potato will help to protect the dairy protein from curdling. Just keep the heat moderate and stir the soup frequently, and separation should not be a problem.

The type of potato makes very little difference in the quality of a soup. Boiling potatoes -- such as red, white and yellow round potatoes -- work as well as oblong russet baking-potatoes. Russet potatoes, however, will yield softer, smoother results, and are not recommended when chunks of potatoes are desired in the finished product.

In the recipes that follow, I have at times called for specific potatoes, but feel free to make a substitution, being sure to use the weight measure rather than the number of potatoes called for when determining quantity.

More vital to the outcome of a potato soup is how the potatoes are handled. It is important that the potatoes not be too finely chopped before cooking. If they are, too much starch will be released into the broth and a gummy texture will result.

An unpleasant consistency can also result from the pureeing of the cooked soup. If the potatoes are pulverized too thoroughly, they will leach gelatinized starch into the broth. This starch will bond with the broth, causing the body of the soup to become slimy. To guard against this, it is best to mash the potatoes into the soup with a potato masher or a large fork, or to run the soup solids through a food mill to crush them. If neither of these options is feasible, a blender or food processor can be used, but care must be taken to puree the potatoes in small batches and to use short pulses in processing.

It is never advisable to process a potato soup to a completely smooth puree. Not only will you run the risk of ruining the soup's consistency, but the soup will lack the hearty textural interest that is part of the enjoyment of a homemade potato soup.

Any potato soup can be made ahead and frozen or refrigerated, but if you know you are going to be freezing the soup before serving it, it is best to delay adding any dairy ingredients until serving time. This will make it easier to reheat the soup, and increase its shelf life, since dairy products are the most perishable ingredients in most potato soup recipes.

Potato soups are served both chilled and hot, but most recipes are written for hot soup. So if you do serve a potato soup chilled, you will find it necessary to adjust its consistency with additional liquid. You may also want to increase the seasoning in the recipe because cold temperatures dull flavors.

The following recipes play on the theme of potato soup by altering its flavor profile with additions of cheddar cheese, leeks, fennel, smoked salmon, chicken or garlic. POTATO CHEESE SOUP (6 servings)

This soup can become grainy if it is heated too vigorously or for too long after the cheese has been added. 2 onions, finely chopped

1 tablespoon vegetable oil

1 tablespoon butter or margarine

1 1/2 pounds (5 or 6 medium to large) red-skinned potatoes, peeled and diced

Pinch of dried thyme

4 cups chicken or vegetable broth

1 cup light cream or milk

1 cup milk

Salt and pepper to taste

6 ounces (1 1/2 cups) shredded sharp cheddar cheese

1 tablespoon cornstarch

In a large heavy saucepan, cook the onion in the oil and butter or margarine until softened, about 3 minutes.

Add the potatoes and thyme, and toss with the onions. Add the broth and simmer for 15 minutes, until the potatoes are tender.

Through a food mill or in a food processor or blender, combine the soup's solids in batches with half its liquid until finely chopped, being careful not to overprocess. Return the mixture to the remaining liquid in the pot and stir to combine.

Add the cream and/or milk and the salt and pepper, and heat slowly to a simmer.

Meanwhile toss the cheese with the cornstarch and whisk the mixture into the simmering soup, heating and stirring the soup just long enough to melt the cheese. Do not allow to boil.

Per serving: 381 calories, 39 gm carbohydrates, 55 mg cholesterol, 689 mg sodium, 11 gm protein, 20 gm fat, 11 gm saturated fat POTATO-GARLIC SOUP (6 servings)

1 large onion, finely chopped

2 tablespoons virgin olive oil

2 heads garlic, broken into cloves, peeled and finely chopped

1 1/2 pounds potatoes (any type), peeled and diced

4 cups chicken broth

Salt and pepper to taste

Dash of nutmeg

1 cup light cream or milk

1 cup milk

In a large heavy saucepan, cook the onion in the oil until soft, about 3 minutes.

Add the garlic and potatoes and toss with the onions. Add the broth and salt and pepper, and simmer for 15 minutes, until the potatoes are tender.

With a potato masher or the back of a large cooking spoon, mash the potatoes coarsely. Don't worry if the results are uneven. Continue cooking until the soup thickens slightly.

Add the nutmeg, cream and/or milk and heat slowly to a simmer. Adjust seasoning and serve.

Per serving: 260 calories, 32 gm carbohydrates, 20 mg cholesterol, 249 mg sodium, 7 gm protein, 12 gm fat, 5 gm saturated fat POTATO-FENNEL VICHYSSOISE (4 to 6 servings)

1 onion, finely chopped

1 large leek (white part only), cleaned, sliced and finely chopped

1 fennel bulb, sliced

2 teaspoons ground fennel seeds

2 tablespoons olive oil

2 pounds potatoes (any type), peeled and sliced

6 cups chicken stock

1 to 2 teaspoons salt

1/2 teaspoon white pepper

Pinch of nutmeg

1 cup light cream or milk

1 cup milk

1/3 cup chopped fresh chives

1 cup sour cream, yogurt or buttermilk (if serving chilled)

In a heavy soup pot, saute the onion, leek, fennel and fennel seeds in the oil until the vegetables are soft. Add the potatoes and toss to coat with the oil. Add the chicken stock, salt, white pepper and nutmeg. Simmer until the potatoes are tender, 15 to 20 minutes. Do not overcook.

Through a food mill or in a food processor or blender, combine the soup's solids in batches with half its liquid until finely chopped, taking care not to overprocess. Return the mixture to the remaining liquid in the pot and stir to combine. Stir in the light cream and/or milk, and heat through.

Serve hot or chilled garnished with chopped chives. If the soup is to be served chilled, add the sour cream, yogurt or buttermilk before serving.

Per serving (without optional sour cream): 308 calories, 41 gm carbohydrates, 20 mg cholesterol, 542 mg sodium, 8 gm protein, 13 gm fat, 5 gm saturated fat CHICKEN AND POTATO CHOWDER (8 servings) 4 slices bacon

1 pound boneless chicken breast, pounded to 1/2 inch thick

Salt and pepper to taste

Paprika to taste

1 cup diced onion

2 ribs celery, diced

1 garlic clove, minced

1 1/2 pounds (5 to 6 medium) red-skinned potatoes, scrubbed and diced*

1 red bell pepper, cored, seeded and diced

1/8 teaspoon crushed hot red pepper flakes

6 cups chicken broth

2 tablespoons chopped fresh dill

1 tablespoon chopped fresh parsley

2 cups milk

In a large soup pot, render the fat from the bacon. Remove the bacon, drain on paper towel, crumble and reserve.

Meanwhile season the chicken breast liberally with salt, pepper and paprika. Brown on both sides in the hot bacon fat. Remove. Drain on paper towels, cut into bite-size pieces and reserve.

Lower the heat and add the onion, celery, garlic, potatoes, bell pepper and pepper flakes. Stir until the onion loses its raw look, about 1 minute. Add the broth, dill and parsley. Simmer 12 to 15 minutes, until potatoes are almost tender.

Add the reserved chicken and bacon to the soup and simmer another 8 minutes. Add the milk and heat through.

* Note: Do not use baking (Idaho) potatoes for this recipe. Because the potatoes are kept in chunks, the mealy texture of a baking potato would be unpleasant in this soup.

Per serving: 233 calories, 23 gm carbohydrates, 45 mg cholesterol, 288 mg sodium, 19 gm protein, 7 gm fat, 3 gm saturated fat Andrew Schloss is a cookbook author whose "Dinner's Ready," written with Ken Bookman, was published earlier this year by William Morrow. CAPTION: As pretty as a . . . potato? These notecards, featuring Deborah Jone's photos from "Potatoes: A Country Garden Cookbook" (Collins Publishers) are 18 for $13 at book and card stores.